11/21/2023 0 Comments Suitcase fusion 4The plates are still ultra-seasonal and the wines juicy and low-intervention, but the flavours have turned towards the south, thanks to Tondo’s Sardinian origins and his admiration for Nonna’s recipes. Simone Tondo took over this beautiful restaurant – a tiled, glazed corner inside one of Paris’s 19th-century arcades – a decade after its inauguration as an influential néo-bistro and champion of natural wines. Book ahead – and be sure not to confuse the restaurant with the original Lolo cave à manger, a 10-minute walk away.Īddress: 53 rue du Faubourg Poissonnière, 75009 Paris Website: ĭish to order: Giant veal chop alla Milanese Outside, tables tightly squeezed onto the pavement in summer are all part of Lolo’s charm. Add in a smashing natural wine list (look out for Domaine du Petit Oratoire’s Jajatoès, an elegantly natural Clairette, Grenache Blanc and Viognier blend), and it’s easy to linger long into the evening, even if you’re perched on a stool overlooking the open kitchen. For dessert, flavour combinations get daring with their knockout caramel and stilton tartelette. A nduja scotch egg might lead to a pecorino-heavy veal tartare or sole in seaweed butter, with plats generally topping out at a reasonable €30. The short menu from chef Zac Gannat mixes fun and finesse in equal measure. The corner site is a short walk from Pyrenées Métro, with Parc des Buttes-Chaumont close to the north for a hilly walk after lunch.Īddress: 1 Rue Pradier, 75019 Paris Website: īehind a minimal, wood-clad facade on a narrow, quintessentially Parisian street in the 9th, Christophe Juville and Loïc Minel have built on the success of their no-reservations wine bar with a seriously cool, neon-lit bistro. Starters such as potato, fermented cabbage and haddock or homemade boudin noir are produce-led and delicate, and retro puddings (île flottante, crème caramel) are subtle, not sticky. The food, at a glance, might seem classic, but there is great skill in cooking a wonderful blanquette de veau or turning out an elegant tête de veau. Le Cadoret, opened in 2017 by chef Léa Fleuriot and her brother Louis-Marie, is a neighbourhood bistro with mirrors, terrazzo floors and a relaxed atmosphere, which its young owners have cleverly refreshed with a jolly blue awning, craft beers and an all-natural wine list (Loire- and Jura-heavy, and there’s quince liqueur from Domaine Binner in Alsace). The holy grail: classic French food, not too fancy, brilliantly well prepared and super value. Frequent tableside drizzling and grating means you must concentrate a bit, but why wouldn’t you? In contrast with the smart, mushroom-toned design that mops up any clanking of bespoke ceramics, the food is distinctive, thrilling and vitally French.Īddress: Marsan par Hélène Darroze, 4 Rue d'Assas, 75006 Paris Website: ĭish to order: Île flottante, crème caramel A starter of sea urchin, caviar and cauliflower is disarmingly creamy gilthead bream with Colonnata back fat, Paris cep and black truffle is a major savoury mouthful robustly thyme-scented baby lamb from the Pyrenees is a restrained showstopper. Tiny appetisers might include beautifully crafted crisps of chicken skin packing a foie-gras flavour bomb or miniature goat’s cheese pastries, light as air. The tasting menu served at the chef’s table (get your hair done – they’re looking at you too) name-checks Saint-Jean-de-Luz and the Périgord, as well as her brother and grandfather. The name is a tribute to her home region of Landes, and there’s no doubting the sincerity of her attachment to the southwest and its flavours. But Marsan by Hélène Darroze (who has three Michelin stars for her London outpost at The Connaught Hotel) is relatively new, opening in 2019 as a fresh incarnation. The smart Left Bank address – a short-ish walk over the river from many other restaurants here – hasn’t changed, nor have its regulars. Dish to order: Gilthead bream with Colonnata back fat, Paris cep and black truffle
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